The Natchez Trace, How it came to be
First herds of bison, deer and other animals made their way seeking the necessities of life; food, shelter and salt. Then the nomads of the Americas found easier traveling on established animal trails than trying to labor their way through the dense forest and swamps. Following the Indian nomads, white men starting making use of the well established trail from the Cumberland River region to the great Mississippi River. Finally 20th century men realized the importance in preserving this historic passage way. Traveling almost 450 miles from Nashville, to Natchez, the Natchez Trace has been one of America’s longest surviving and most important roads. Since the early 19th century the “Trace” has been known by white man as the Natchez Trace, prior to that it was called the Chickasaw Trace” or the “Path to the Choctaw Nation”.
In the late 1700’s, considerable settling was being done in the Tennessee and Kentucky regions. Farmers and merchants were looking for ways to expand their markets and Natchez and New Orleans seemed logical destinations. The cost, both in labor and money to transport their goods down a rough undeveloped road was difficult not to mention dangerous. The preferred method was by boat. So farmers throughout the region built “flatboats” and floated the many rivers and waterways to the Mississippi river and down to Natchez or New Orleans. Once there they could sell their goods, dismantle their boats, sell the lumber, and then return on foot, along the Natchez Trace. This period became know as the “Boatman Era” when thousands made the trip from the 1780’s until around 1811.
As one might expect, with the wealth created by those making the trip down the river and up the Trace, a new enterprise rose up, the era of the outlaw. Gangs of thieves began looking for easy “pickens” but unlike the Boatman Era, these crooks and outlaws lived long after the Boatmen stopped traveling the Trace.
Around 1811, with the advent of the steamship these merchants were now able to travel home back up the Mississippi in relative safety and the “Boatmen era” ended.
The National Period followed the Boatman Era when it was decided that the Trace provide a good way of communicating with the newly established Mississippi Territory. Even though much of the territory was still under ownership of the Choctaws and Chickasaw nations, this was a period of American expansionism and the Trace was a major part of that process.
In 1801 the postmaster general wrote to the secretary of war informing him of the difficulties in maintaining mail service on the Trace “on account of the badness of the road”. Treaties in 1801 between the Choctaws and Chickasaws permitted improvements to the Trace. An improved road led to greater traffic which in turn led to more lodging along the Trace. This lodge known as “stands” and were found every few miles, offering a roof and hot meal.
As traffic increased so did the “banditti”. The army was stationed along the Trace to insure the safety of travelers from these thugs and outlaws. The banditti or highwaymen stole everything from money to slaves and had little regard for human life. It is little known that the highwaymen along the Natchez Trace were in fact the first organized crime in the United States as outlaws formed organized groups working together.
One of America’s best known figures, Merewether Lewis of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, life ended on the Trace. Lewis having served Thomas Jefferson as his personal secretary was appointed governor of the Louisiana Territory. In 1809 Lewis left for Washington traveling the Trace. On October 11, 1809 while spending the evening at Grinders Stand, shots were heard in the middle of the night. Mrs. Grinder went to investigate and found Lewis with multiple gun shots including one to the head. It was ruled a suicide? As all public figures having suffered an untimely death, the debate of suicide vs. murder has gone on since. In 1996 a Tennessee Grand Jury ordered Lewis’ body be exhumed and examined but since he is buried in a National Park, approval is required for the National Park Service, as of 2010 it still waiting approval. Be sure to visit Lewis’ grave and museum around Mile Marker 360.
In 1539 De Soto began exploring the south and for the next 200 years European explores continued exploring much of the south from Florida to Texas including the Mississippi Valley. Many historians believe De Soto’s men encountered the Trace just south of Tupelo. In fact De Soto died in 1542 and his body buried in the Mississippi River in the vicinity of Natchez. From the middle 1500’s to late 1700’s Europeans had many encounters with Native Americans living along the Trace many of these encounters were peaceful but many ended in war. In 1713 the French had established a trading post at Natchez. A short three years later, the Natchez people rose up and attacked with the French defeating them. Again in 1729 the Natchez rose this time killing close to 250 men and capturing an equal or greater number of women and children. The French struck back destroying the Natchez nations once and for all.
Over 10,000 years ago wondering people lived in the Tennessee and Mississippi valleys but because of the nomadic lifestyle little evidence of them is left. Starting around 10,000 years ago a major changes started, farming required less traveling and permitted settling in one area. Around 3000 years ago the Woodland Era began. With an increase reliance on agriculture and the introduction of pottery. This period existed for about 2200 years. During this period the spear was replaced with the bow and arrow. It was during this time that burial practices became more lavish and the dead were buried under burial mounds, some which are still found along the Trace.
The Mississippian Period followed around 700 A.D. Large temple mounds were built. Around these temples larger villages were established, many with defensive structures. Ceremonial art and intricate pottery was made and large scale agriculture became the norm.
Many of the temple mounds can be seen while driving the Trace, among them the Pharr Mounds consisting of 8 burial mounds from around 1-200 A.D. The Bear Creek Mound (ceremonial mound) build around 1200-1400 A.D. with its flat top and about 10’ tall is located in one of the oldest prehistoric sites, dating back 10,000 years. Emerald Mound, the largest covers 8 acres and was 35’ tall was built between 1250-1600 A.D. To see it exit the Trace at Mile Post 10.3 and drive about 1 mile (follow signs).
The modern era for the Trace began in 1934 when local congressman Thomas Busby introduced a resolution calling for preservation of the Trace. President Roosevelt agreed, much because of his needed support from powerful Mississippi Senator Pat Harrison and because of the Great Depression and FDR’s Civilian Conservation Corps program was looking for public works projects.
Today the Natchez Trace it is a far cry from when Davy Crocket traveled it on his way to the Alamo; it is a modern highway stretching through 3 states. Dedicated to preserving the history, beauty and tranquility of the area, enjoy all 440 miles with no commercial traffic, stop signs or traffic lights - but be sure to enjoy it in a Model A.
How this tour came to be.
MAFCA’s Natchez Trace Tour unofficially started when Jill Sullins and I began discussing how to better meet MAFCA members’ expectations. Little did I realize when this talk began both Jill and I were heading down the same road. We both felt MAFCA desperately needed a regularly scheduled National Tour. During that conversation I told her of a trip Janet and I had taken a couple years before on the Natchez Trace. “What a great Model A road it was and what a great tour it would make…”
A few weeks later Jim Spawn told MAFCA’s Board of Directors of a national tour he and Dick Przyitowski wanted to lead, celebrating the 150th Anniversary of the Pony Express. Seeing the Board of Directors support of this caused both of us to further develop and start working towards establishing national tours as a regular part of MAFCA.
Then it happened, Jill being who she is, called me to say that she had made contact with David Black, who had lead a dozen Model A tours on the Trace. Through the outstanding vision and leadership of Jill and David, the 2011 MAFCA National Tour down, the Natchez Trace is happening. It is our hope you appreciate this great bit of American history and beauty in one of “Henry’s Great Ladies”.
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